Rosacea
Managing flushing, sensitivity, and inflammation with a barrier-centric approach and anti-inflammatory actives.
Understanding Rosacea
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory condition characterized by persistent redness, flushing, and sometimes pustules or bumps. It's driven by a combination of factors: vascular reactivity (blood vessels respond excessively to triggers), compromised barrier function, and dysbiosis of the skin microbiome.
Unlike acne, rosacea isn't caused by bacteria or clogged pores. It's an immune and vascular issue, which means traditional acne treatments often make it worse.
Rosacea Management Protocol
Step 1: Identify Your Triggers
Common triggers: spicy food, alcohol, hot beverages, extreme temperatures, emotional stress, certain skincare products (particularly fragrance, essential oils, and actives), and UV exposure. Keep a diary for 1-2 weeks to identify your personal triggers.
Step 2: Simplify Ruthlessly
Use only gentle, fragrance-free cleansers and moisturizers. No essential oils, fragrance, alcohol denat, or irritating actives. Your goal is to stabilize before adding anything else.
Step 3: Add Azelaic Acid (8-20%)
Azelaic acid is the gold-standard rosacea ingredient. It's anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and reduces vascular reactivity. Use 1-2x daily. It's gentler than many actives and rosacea skin tolerates it well.
Step 4: Support the Barrier
Use ceramide-rich moisturizers and consider soothing ingredients like centella asiatica, niacinamide, and allantoin. A strong barrier reduces sensitivity and inflammation.
Step 5: Strict SPF
UV exposure triggers rosacea flares and causes vascular damage. Use SPF 30+ daily. Mineral sunscreen is gentler than chemical.
What to Avoid
- All fragrance and essential oils
- Physical exfoliants and harsh scrubs
- Retinoids until rosacea is controlled
- Benzoyl peroxide (too irritating)
- Hot water (use lukewarm)
- Products with alcohol denat or high-pH formulas
Professional Help
If rosacea doesn't improve with topical care, dermatologists can prescribe oral antibiotics (like low-dose doxycycline for its anti-inflammatory effects) or recommend laser/IPL treatments to reduce vascular reactivity.